The plan for today was always to chill – four time zones in three days is quite a challenge. But a good breakfast in the hotel set us up for the day, and we set out for a supermarket to get some basic bits and bobs. It was cold and wet – only 8 degrees, raining and windy. Halifax’s architecture looks like it would survive an ice age – big granite blocks; sturdy no nonsense buildings, steep roofs (presumably to keep the snow from building up!).
Provisions sorted, we wandered back along the famous waterfront. Halifax’s waterfront is one of the most vibrant and historically rich urban waterfronts in Atlantic Canada. Stretching along the western shore of Halifax Harbour, the boardwalk winds past a mix of restored heritage buildings, lively restaurants, and working piers that speak to the city’s deep maritime roots.
Needless to say we stopped for coffee, ended up sitting in two enormous wicker basket chairs at The Daily Grind. Warm and cosy was much appreciated.
The area is anchored by landmarks like the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, where visitors can explore the region’s seafaring history — including artifacts from the Titanic disaster — and peer out at the iconic HMCS Sackville, Canada’s last surviving WWII corvette. That visit is for another day, Nearby, Pier 21 stands as a powerful reminder of the millions of immigrants who arrived on Canadian shores, now home to the Canadian Museum of Immigration.
Walking back up to the hotel (and Halifax is surprisingly steep!) we passed some beautiful old buildings, including one that included a pop culture shop. Got chatting to the owner inside who explained that as well as decades classic comics from the likes of Marvel and DC, they encourage local comic book artists as well. He gifted us a copy of a locally created Superman comic. Canadians really are lovely people.
Our hotel is just down from The Citadel, a National Historic Site at the highest point of the city. It’s a star-shaped fortress that has stood watch over the city and its harbour for centuries. The current structure, completed in 1856, is actually the fourth fortification built on the hill, reflecting the site’s long strategic importance to British military and colonial ambitions in North America. While we were walking along the waterfront, at midday we heard a massive bang – which we later found out was the firing of the noon cannon — a tradition that has marked the hour for Halifax residents since 1857.
Tonight we’re off to the Theatre to see the musical Come from Away, inspired by the remarkable true story of what happened in the small town of Gander, Newfoundland, in the days following the September 11, 2001 attacks. When 38 planes were grounded and nearly 7,000 passengers were stranded in the tiny community, the people of Gander opened their homes, schools, and hearts to welcome the bewildered travellers from around the world. The show celebrates the extraordinary kindness and generosity of the Newfoundlanders. Gander is a way up the coast from us here, but surely Canada’s Maritime provinces are the perfect place to see the show.
Later that night…. Just got back from the show which was absolutely fantastic. A brilliant cast, imaginative staging, and an engaging story. I think the fact that we were seeing it with East Coast Canadians who know Newfoundland and its people made it all the more special. A story we know well, both having been senior reporters on deck the day it happened. A few sniffles at times, but a standing ovation at the end. A memorable event for us.
